Archive of May 2018

Richard Mille RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough Replica Watch

Thus far at SIHH 2018, no other replica watch has given me more of a visceral response than the sexy and expensive new Richard Mille RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough replica watch. Ironically, neither the close-to-a-million-dollar price nor the wildly detailed and visible movement are responsible for the sense of “replica watch lust” I experienced. It also isn’t the RM53-01’s friendly color combination or modern, masculine look that are the main points of my focus. In truth, the RM53-01 is precisely the type of replica watch we expected from Richard Mille at the show.

More interesting for me is that I have no particular familiarity or interest in the sport of polo – for which the Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough was conceived to survive. This is actually the second (and more interesting) polo replica watch Richard Mille produced in collaboration with the popular South American polo player. Mac Donough’s first replica watch by Richard Mille was also designed to survive impacts common in the aggressive equestrian sport. The first replica watch was almost entirely covered in titanium with only small windows for the time and a view of the tourbillon. For the RM53-01 it was a specific point by Richard himself that the movement be very visible. So how else can you protect against impacts while also allowing one to enjoy the movement? Richard Mille attempts to effectively answer this question in two ways.

The first way is to incorporate a version of their movement suspension cable system. Introduced in an earlier Richard Mille replica watch for tennis player Rafael Nadal, the movement suspension system uses a series of two tiny metal cables on 10 pulleys and is held tight by four “suspensioners” to suspend the mostly titanium manually-wound tourbillon-based movement. Thus, cables absorb a lot of the shock that the replica watch might experience if knocked around. Rather than physical shock going into the movement and likely breaking it, the cable system absorbs a good deal of dangerous vibrations. Seeing how cool the tiny cables are to view is another pleasure unto itself. Second, for the first time Richard Mille has developed a replica watch with a laminated sapphire crystal. The concept is similar to how safety glass for cars works. There are two pieces of sapphire crystal, which are laminated together with a clear adhesive film. Just by looking at the RM53-01’s crystal you wouldn’t know anything is different about it – and yet, it’s perhaps one of the most durable, super expensive replica watches available.

Wearing the RM53-01 on your wrist confirms just how important weight (or the lack thereof) is for luxury timepieces today. Sure, the feeling of a heavy gold replica watch is still very much real, but when it comes to exotic sport replica watches consumers want performance. In many instances high performance sport replica watches benefit from being light. Not only are they hard to notice on your wrist, but for a demanding athlete, removing all extra weight can mean the difference between winning and losing. Richard Mille isn’t claiming record-setting lightness for the RM53-01 (they have other models for that), but I can tell you that despite the relatively large size of the replica watch, it has an extremely light touch and feels like almost nothing is on your wrist while wearing it. It isn’t hard to admire the replica watch off your wrist either. Richard Mille again uses TPT carbon for the case material, which is a layered form of carbon that is durable and really good looking. The RM53-01 case is 44.5mm wide, 49.94mm tall (lug-to-lug) and 16.15mm thick (water-resistant to 50m). The complicated case design mixed with the interesting strap system (with the effective but ironically non-luxury Velcro closure system) makes for an apt frame to show off the symmetrical and visually engaging in-house movement.

Powering the replica watch is a manually-wound tourbillon-based movement which offers just the time. It operates at 3Hz and has about two days of power reserve. As I said above, most of the movement bridges are in titanium, and the design of the movement is excellent because Richard Mille went out of their way to make it symmetrical, as well as a bastion of fine details for us horological enthusiasts out there. What sells the RM53-01 is its persistent following of Richard Mille’s core values that make modern luxury sports replica watches exciting and fresh. It is a very fun toy with a price that will leave most of us feeling as though no matter how good we have been, only very rich boys will get to sit down at Richard Mille’s table and share his creations.

A Complete Guidebook On Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox Men's Replica Watch

As one of the more identifiable models from the history of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the 1968 version is also one of the rarest. Less than 2,000 were produced in the original run although there have been multiple Memovox (sans Polaris) reissues over the years, most recently in 2016 with a boutique edition of 500 set within the Master Collection.

This year, however, marks the 50th anniversary of the very specific Memovox Polaris and Jaeger-LeCoultre Men's Replica chose to honor this golden jubilee with the launch of the new Polaris Collection based entirely off the original alarm replica watch’s design but extended into different arenas such as chronographs, worldtimers, and time-only models. 

This new Polaris Memovox (Jaeger-LeCoultre switched the Polaris identifier in front of Memovox in accordance with the collection’s name) functions similarly to the 1968 model. Three crowns offer control over the alarm function and time setting. The first crown allows you to wind the alarm function and then set the alarm and date when it’s pulled out, the middle crown doesn’t pull out and allows you to adjust the bidirectional inner rotating bezel, and the lower crown is the one that allows you to adjust the time.

With the crowns, it’s worth noting that despite the nautical provenance of the original Memovox Polaris, and the fact that it is rated for a water resistance of 200 meters, none of the crowns are actual screw-down crowns. This, and the fact that the replica watch features a bidirectional bezel, means that it is not ISO-compliant so it should never be used for any sort of scuba diving.

This is neither a good or a bad thing. Overall, the new Polaris Collection allows Jaeger-LeCoultre to embrace a sportier side that it has lacked over the past few years. With the focus on building out the Master line plus the dominating presence of the Reverso, there hasn’t been much room for the growth of the luxury sports segment within the Jaeger-LeCoultre catalog. In that regard, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox Replica is not a dive replica watch but is a sports replica watch with a dive heritage that can be positioned at the head of the greater Polaris Collection.

The alarm rings once the hour hand passes it by, making it difficult to set to the exact minute. In this image, the alarm is set to ring a few minutes after 7:00.

When setting the alarm function, which is indicated by the arrow on the center dial, you must align the marker with wherever the hour hand will pass it by, a difficult task to do to the exact minute. After being fully wound and properly set, the alarm goes off for around 15 seconds, emitting a deep, guttural growl of a ring rather than the harsh, high-pitched, screeching buzz you might be used to if you’ve been around other alarm models. It’s a pleasant ringing that has a much fuller sound than that of your typical alarm clock. There was more than one time in the week that I wore the replica watch, that after forgetting I had set the alarm earlier in the day, I was awakened after dozing off on the couch by its persistent yet gentle, loud yet soft, alarm.

Another distinguishing trait of the Polaris Memovox is the distinctive dial architecture with its mix of various finishes across the three concentric circles. There’s a smooth opaline finish on the inner rotating bezel that is complemented by a grained finish where the applied Arabic numerals and trapezoidal indexes that are filled with a pool of “faux-patina,” vanilla-colored SuperLuminova are set, and a snailed finish across the minute-track. Finally, the inner circle with the alarm indicator features a sunray finish. This set of finishing is, as mentioned, directly inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris and is the dominating trend throughout the greater Polaris Collection, connecting the line of six timepieces together.

On the Wrist:Longines Legend Diver Black Men's Replica Watches

Longines presented a new version of its Longines Legend Diver Replica, a reissue of a 1960s diving replica watch from 1960. Part of the Heritage line, this new Legend Diver model combines the style codes and design elements typical of the era with a black PVD coating which gives the replica watch a new modern look.

The lines of the original have been preserved but the new replica watch is now equipped with updated technical characteristics.

The boxed glass is made of sapphire crystal and the two screw-in crowns and screw-down back guarantee a remarkable water resistance to 30 bar (around 300 metres / 1,000 feet).

The bidirectional internal turning diving bezel is activated and stopped by the crown located at 2 o’clock, allowing the wearer to determine the remaining dive time.

The indexes, numerals and hands, coated with Super-LumiNova, pop from the black lacquered dial for optimum legibility, which is further enhanced by the plain, clean typeface used for the numerals 6, 9 and 12.

The 42 mm steel case, whose screw-down back is decorated with an embossed illustration of a diver, houses an automatic mechanical movement that is exclusive to Longines, the Calibre L888.2 (ETA A31.L01) beating at 25,200 vibrations per hours with a power reserve of 64 hours.

A Milanese-style black rubber strap equipped with a folding titanium clasp treated with black PVD and an integrated diving extension complete this timepiece.

Let Us Review The TAG Heuer Autavia CBE2110 Men's Replica Watches

The relaunch of the TAG Heuer Autavia Replica has been much anticipated and it’s a welcome return. The prices on vintage Autavia’s have been increasing like crazy, meaning the new Autavia arrives at an interesting time.

There has been a lot of change over the last few years at TAG Heuer, changes for the better in my view. My prediction is that TAG Heuer within the next upcoming years will get the respect they deserve from the customers, the replica watches have already been elevated to the next level.

The Case

The Autavia case is made at TAG Heuer’s own Cortech factory in Cornol, with nothing to complain about regarding the finish. An all-polished case is expected and we recognise the design language from the original 60s/70s Autavia.

The case offers nothing new when it comes to the design compared to the original models except for the larger size of 42mm. Releasing a larger new version of a classic is always ammunition for the doubters, but I think the new size works great. I would of course prefer the case to be a little thinner but the thickness of 15.9mm doesn’t bother me.

The width of the bezel looks a little large in pictures, but looks good on the wrist. The bezel has 60 clicks and is therefore already prepared for the possibility of a diving bezel inlay with count-up or countdown markings.

Movement

The 2016 Autavia features the new in-house movement, the Calibre Heuer-02, which is an automatic column wheel chronograph movement with a vertical clutch, 12 hrs chronograph function, 75 hrs power reserve and beats at 28800 vph. Timekeeping specifications are not official during the review.

The chronograph function is precise and there is no visible vibration of the central chronograph hand when the chronograph is started or stopped. The rotor can make a loud winding sound sometimes when the rotor starts turning like crazy, I however find it charming, not annoying. The Calibre Heuer-02 is a modern movement and given the long-standing debate around the importance of in-house vs. third-party movements, I thought it would be interesting to follow the path of the development of this specific movement.

The earlier Calibre Heuer-01 movement (Calibre 1887) is based on the Seiko Chronograph 6S movement. There are a variety of views on which specific Seiko movement formed the basis for the Heuer-01/ Calibre 1887, but the most likely candidate for the base movement is the 6s78 movement used in the since long discontinued Credor chronograph GCBP997. The factory used by Seiko for outsourcing movements is the SII (Seiko Instruments Inc.) and their version of this movement is named SII TC78. Despite this family link, the Calibre Heuer-01 is however a significantly modified SII TC78.

Initially it’s a good idea to source and modify an existing movement since it costs significantly less than developing a new movement from scratch, but there are some restrictions, for example flexibility is limited on the final size, layout on the dial and the production process.

The chronograph layout (12-6-9) is the most evident restriction. Seiko has a layout which makes good sense, as you can see the “running seconds” even if the replica watch is partly hidden by the sleeve of your shirt. This layout is however not true to the heritage of Heuer and therefore was not the best choice for the new Autavia.

Caseback

I always prefer a solid caseback regardless of movement finish, but the caseback displays the movement nicely which some will appreciate.

Strap/bracelet The Autavia is available with a bracelet (for a slight premium), or with the 21mm leather with contrasting stitching that you see in this review. The strap is waxed on the sides and goes well with the replica watch but I would have preferred it to be tapered to 18mm instead of 20mm.